After replacing the battery, shooting a little oil into the cylinders,
and cleaning out the glass fuel bowl and carb, the tractor fired
up after about 5 seconds of cranking. Man...the "PB Blaster"
oil I used smoked like you wouldn't believe. After about 30 seconds
I was starting to think something was wrong but the smoke finally
One little detail that really had me stumped was where in the
world is the clutch! Some crawlers use a clutch lever, which
was absent on this rig. There are two foot pedals, and I figured
both were turning brakes. Well...it turns out that the left pedal
is the main clutch (just like in a car) and because the battery
tray was flipped down, it was blocking the pedal. Talk about
feeling stupid! Anyway, after I figured that out I backed her
out of the barn and took it for a spin around the gravel lot
outside the barn. I'm so anxious to move some dirt with the blade.
Things I need to-do/find-out at this point:
Locate pictures or drawings of what the John Deere 76 blade is
supposed to look like from the factory. The JD76 blade on this
particular crawler has been modified. One of the support tubes
for the grill guard has been replaced with a length of strap
Locate a battery cover/tool box cover.
Figure out what's wrong with the hydraulic system. After the
blade is raised all the way up and the control released, the
blade drop to the ground on it's own in about 7 seconds. I raised
the blade up and used chains to support it, otherwise I have
to constantly lift the blade when I'm running the crawler around.
**(4/6/2002) Just got an email from a fellow saying that there
is a "float" screw on the valve assembly, and that
if the screw is completely out or partially unscrewed, it puts
the hydraulic system in a float mode which is why the blade drops
down on it's own. Hopefully checking the screw will fix the problem
**Someone also told me that the John Deere 76 blade was origionally
installed on the JD 1010 crawler, which is why it's been modified
to fit this 40C
**(4/9/2002) Had a look at the "float" screw inside
of the valve. It had some burrs on the seat area that I cleaned
up on a lathe with a fine file and reinstalled it. The blade
stayed up better, but it still drops.
**(5/11/2002) The engine suddenly picked up a nasty sounding
**5/17/2002 Started tearing into the engine to locate the knocking
sound. Thought it was the bottom end, connecting rods or somesuch,
but turned out to be a small piece of metal sucked into the engine.
Caused slight damage to the piston but wasn't anything serious.
Taking the skid plate off to inspect the bottom end though was
a full day's work. What a hassle.
**(10/14/2002) Finally got motivated to put the tractor back
together. The head is now bolted on and torqued, along with the
rocker arm shaft. Still missing the intake/exhaust manifold gasket,
water manifold gaskets (2), and a carb gasket.
**(10/19/2002) Picked up the missing gaskets from the local John
Deere dealer and went about finishing up the engine reassembly.
I've discovered what has to be the slickest way to clean gasket
surfaces. 3M Roloc disks. I bought an Ingersoll-Rand
IR317 "High speed sander" and an adapter kit that lets
it accept the Roloc disks. It strips rust, paint, gasket material,
just about everything right off the gasket surface and leaves
a nice clean, slightly roughened surface. Saves a tremendous
amount of time wiring brushing by hand. I still use a gasket
scraper to get off the big chunks but then the Roloc's take over.
After cleaning the valve cover, valve cover mating surface on
the head, the exhaust manifold and head, and carb, the rest of
the parts went right together. Dumped one gallon of new anti-freeze
into the radiator and topped off with water. Probably should
have used 1 1/2 gallon instead for cold weather.
The engine cranked for about five seconds until it started and
blew black smoke. The fuel in the carb was probably stale, having
sat in there since last summer. After that, it cleared up and
ran great. I hadn't replaced the oil pan gasket, thinking I could
get by. That was a mistake. It leaked like a sieve. I'll have
to replace it next weekend. Even with the leak, it ran great
and I took it for a quick spin in the driveway, and moved the
Killefer scraper from it's spot in the grass.
**(10/26/2002) I emptied the oil out of the oil pan and it was
quite dirty. Probably just from cleaning all the gunk out of
the engine, but I'll keep an eye on it. Washed off the oil pan
good in the solvent tank and cleaned it's gasket surface and
the bottom of the block with the IR sander and Roloc's. Bolted
her back together and filled with oil. Started her up and she
ran great, not a single leak. It looks like the water manifold
on the head weeps just a hair, but that went away when the engine
got up to operating temperature. I retorqued the water manifold
bolts just to be sure.
Tom drug out his steam cleaner and I used it to clean the crawler.
Most of the dirt ended up on me!
Next project is to modify the skid plate so it is easier to reinstall,
and to finish putting the guards and hood back on.
**(11/2/2002) Finished putting the crawler back together today.
Put the hood back on, installed the grill guard supports, front
skid plate, and the blade. Oh boy was the blade a pain. The two
arms that go back to the frame pivots are supported by an X made
out of steel. When I straightened the bends out of them, it moved
the ends of the support arms about 1/2" apart so that it
wouldn't slide into the pivots. About two hours later, after
banging/bending and retrying, the blade was in. I moved some
gravel around with the crawler and it runs good. Can't wait to
get it home so I can work on it more without having to drive
Tom had a farm auction and sold off all of his equipment but
the crawler. Unfortunately the box scraper sold for more than
I was willing to pay. We worked a deal out on the crawler so
I can still buy that, outside of the auction.
Finally picked up the crawler and packed it home. Picture of
the haul is at the top of this page. Worked on the driveway and
tore out some dead headge. What a great little tractor!
Kaluzny's 1953 John Deere 40C
John Deere 40C
information about John Deere 40C crawlers:
(Information gleaned from John Deere service manuals)
||Year of manufacturer:
|60001 ~ 63357
|63358 ~ 66893
|66894 ~ 71689
||100.5cu/in, twin cylinder
|Engine rated speed:
10", 14", or 12" snow
|Weight (base tractor):
|Weight with blade:
||Speed @ 1850RPM: